So many of us have our own version of roast chicken we love to cook, and this one’s mine. It’s a warming French classic, made with vin jaune, an oaky, sherry-like wine, from the foothills of the Alps in the Jura region of eastern France. It’s the perfect antidote to a cold wintry night or as the centrepiece of a big spread. Tip: If you can’t get a deboned chicken, roast a whole chicken following the same steps.